Nesting things: mixing bowls edition
I like having good tools, and I don’t have enough money to buy everything and test it myself to find the best picks. Fortunately, there are many, many many, many test kitchens that do that job for me. The great thing about having so many is that you can cross-check and see which items consistently turn up as “highly recommended.”
HOWEVER…
As I do my own work in the own kitchen, sometimes I find that the recommendations made by professional test kitchens don’t at all work for me. There are a few reasons for this, which all basically all boil down to one thing: Working in a commercial kitchen is very different than cooking at home.
Difference #1: Speed
When I’m cooking at home, I’m not in a countdown before someone storms out and flames me on Yelp. I don’t have to use a dish and then throw it across the room to the scullery so it can get washed and used again as quickly as possible. I don’t have to figure out ways to reduce beating times for egg whites down to the second, and I don’t necessarily need a bunch of appliances to do the work for me.
Difference #2: Scale
If I want to make a garlic-intensive dish at home, I probably just need to mince a few cloves. I don’t have to worry about processing five pounds of garlic, so instead of some fancy gadget, I can probably get away with just using a knife. If I’m kneading dough, I’m probably only making enough for one or two loaves, so I don’t need an industrial mixer to get it done.
Difference #3: Resources
In my own kitchen, I have a greater respect for my equipment than I would have for a random object at my place of work. Since replacements and upgrades come directly from my pocket, I am going to be more careful with tools than a commercial cook would have to be.
Difference #4: Personalization!
Commercial kitchens are awesome, but let’s face it, they are not attractive. You could tell me that a certain all-stainless-steel commercial kitchen is proven to be the 100% most efficient, guaranteed way to make great food, and I would still decline to have one installed in my house. Having to live in that kind of environment would be enormously depressing for me, personally — imagine walking into a commercial kitchen in your robe and slippers to start your morning coffee — happy flourescents!
Since my kitchen is both a work AND living space, I want to have a certain amount of aesthetic pleasure in cooking. Having said that, aesthetics are a personal taste, so if you love the institutional look, please go for it.
The other thing that is personalized in home kitchens is the type of food you cook. If you never cook Asian food, then coughing up for expensive woks and steamers won’t help you, regardless of how much your favorite chef loves them. Given how often I do crepes, I’ve never had the need to invest in a crepe pan; a non-stick skillet works fine. If you do certain things all the time, then it makes sense to upgrade your equipment. So, as in all of life, my recommendation is: know thyself.
Okay, after that initial digression, I turn to today’s topic (one of my favorites!): mixing bowls!
What is it about mixing bowls, anyway? Personally, I think it’s because they nest. I think we have some crazed, subconscious love of multiples of things in different sizes. I think it’s also behind the stair-step canister style, on which I’ve already shared my thoughts.
Mixing bowls are also my primary rebellion against conventional test kitchen wisdom: multiple test kitchens all recommend metal mixing bowls, and I have nary a one! I used to, but for a variety of reasons, I let them go and never replaced them.
Here are my reflections on the pros and cons of various mixing bowls, in the context of a home kitchen.
My primary mixing bowl set, which I have had the longest and will probably use until I die and then pass down to my daughter, is a set of vintage Pyrex glass bowls.
These are physically identical to the set my mom had when I was growing up (I just got a different pattern!). This means I was already used to the weight, heft, and dimensions of these bowls. When I stir, my arm automatically traces the interior shape and size, since I’ve been making the same motions since I was 10.
The main objection to glass bowls is that they’re breakable, which is certainly true, although I would offer some qualifiers: Kenji describes the Anchor bowls he used in a professional kitchen as having chipped rims, which I 100% believe. But just because Anchor bowls in a professional kitchen have chipped rims doesn’t mean that every glass bowl is waiting to shatter into a million pieces. The quality of glass varies a lot (I have had bad experiences with Anchor, which is why I prefer Pyrex), as does the design of the bowl (thin rims are more likely to chip than one designed to be sturdier, which is why I prefer vintage Pyrex to modern Pyrex). And I will refer back to my original digression, which is that stuff in a professional kitchen is going to be more roughly handled. I take care of my Pyrex bowls and don’t bang on them with metal utensils or throw them into a commercial dishwasher with a bunch of metal. Short of dropping them on the floor or thermal shocking them, I see no reason why my Pyrex won’t continue to last.
The other criticism of glass bowls is that they are too heavy — but that is exactly why I love mine! When I was using metal bowls, I struggled to hold the bowl still while I mixed with the other hand, especially dense things like cookie doughs and bread doughs. Maybe if you’re stronger than I am, you could make it work, but I find the weightier bowls to make mixing and stirring much, much easier.
(This also goes back to my earlier point about commercial kitchens: most test kitchens I see automatically reach for the stand mixer for heavier doughs, so they don’t even test mixing bowls in those applications.)
You can find all kinds of vintage Pyrex bowls at flea markets, antique stores, estate sales, and everybody’s favorite crack dealer, Ebay. Pyrex Love is a great guide to patterns, so you can choose which pretty design you want to have in your kitchen for the next several decades! Once you identify your pattern, each bowl size has a different number on the bottom, which makes it easier to Google the ones you’re looking for.
You can barely see it, but the bottom of the smallest bowl has “401 1 1/2 pt 750 ml” on it. An Ebay search for “Pyrex 401” brings up that size bowl in many different patterns.
I also own the “Cinderella” style of Pyrex bowl in a different pattern; it is characterized by a grip-spout on one side, and a pouring spout on the other side.
I haven’t used these as much, although I know people who love the spout feature. I find they are a little shallower than the style above, so I tend to accidentally sling stuff over the top when I’m stirring enthusiastically. If I used them more often, I’m sure I would adjust.
Stoneware has many of the same detractors as glass: heavy and fragile. However, those cons haven’t prevented a certain brand of mixing bowl from being in existence for well over one hundred years. And since they haven’t changed their pattern, it can make it hard to tell a vintage picture from a modern one!
There are two problems with Mason Cash: they are CRAZY EXPENSIVE, and they can be an absolute pain to purchase from the US. It’s a little better than it was several years ago, when you could find about one size, and you couldn’t even identify it because the US retailers used a completely different naming convention than the company itself.
The Classic Cane Mixing Bowl comes in six sizes (I used to see 9), all the way from the biggest bowl I’d ever seen down to something small enough to use as a cereal bowl.
The tan is the classic color, but the middle-range sizes are available in a rainbow.
The exterior pattern and the distinctive lip were designed to help bakers hold the bowl still, back when baking bread, by hand, at home, was a never-ending task. The largest sizes were big enough to even knead directly in the bowl.
Because I am an Anglophile with no self-control, I also have the “In the Forest” series, which is just so cute I may explode:
I see they have now replaced the “hare” with a “bear,” which I reject as a flagrant attempt to appeal to Americans. Oh, well, it looks like there are more colors from which to choose, anyway…
My final set of true mixing bowls is the outlier: a set of plastic KitchenAid mixing bowls that I bought, yes, let’s face it, just because it was teal:
These bowls are pretty deep, they don’t weigh much, and they have a nice little handle and a pour spouts. There’s also a rubber rim on the bottom so they don’t slide around, which is nice:
You probably wouldn’t want to put these in the microwave, and if you poured hot ingredients in, it might stain them, but there is one, tragic, unfortunately reason that I have to say I hate these: THE. NOISE.
If you use ANYTHING metal in these bowls (like a basic whisk or a hand mixer), the sound of the metal against the plastic is INCREDIBLY loud and VERY annoying. Like, I can’t even figure how it makes so much noise. It’s almost like they had to design them that way. And this isn’t true of all plastic; I use metal in my batter bowl all the time, and the two cannot be compared.
The bottom line: are metal mixing bowls good? Sure, but they’re far from perfect, and something else may suit you even better.
Also, I didn’t even touch on OTHER types of prep bowls, like pinch bowls, salad bowls, lidded storage bowls… So I guess that’s another post waiting to be written!











































